Italian media is abuzz with speculation about what Demna Gvasalia’s debut collection for Gucci will look like and what strategy Kering’s leadership has chosen to make this launch as high-profile as possible.
It’s no secret that Kering is navigating turbulent times. The era of Sabato De Sarno turned out to be a financial setback for both Gucci and the broader conglomerate. In the first quarter of 2025, the brand’s sales plummeted by 25%, which came as no surprise. Back in February, Sabato De Sarno was sacked as creative director, and in March, his role was taken over by Demna Gvasalia, previously at the helm of Balenciaga. Gucci urgently needs a shift in aesthetic and a recovery in financial performance. This is precisely why Demna’s appointment was so unexpected—I analyzed the decision in detail here.
However, Kering’s leadership didn’t stop there. It’s rumored that instead of a traditional runway show, Demna’s debut will take place in a digital format. What’s more, men’s and women’s looks from the collection will be available for purchase immediately after the presentation in 50 selected Gucci boutiques. The leadership has opted for a “See now, buy now” strategy, which bypasses the usual six-month wait.
This move has the backing of Gucci’s CEO Stefano Cantino and Kering’s deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini. The primary goal is to reach the widest possible audience and instantly gauge the reaction to the brand’s new stylistic vision. In a context where Gucci needs swift results, waiting too long would be a risky gamble.
While the project’s details remain under wraps, one thing is crystal clear: we’re in for a true stylistic upheaval. Will this mark a new renaissance for Gucci, or will it lead to yet another crisis? We’ll find out in September.
