In the 20th century, women’s underwear underwent a true revolution. Two world wars finally freed women from restrictive corsets. However, the modern bra was not yet a staple in wardrobes. Even after World War II, many women wore lighter corsets or cinching belts to accentuate a delicate waistline, as seen in Christian Dior’s iconic dresses.
The Story of the Bullet Bra
Everything changed in the 1950s when the bullet bra burst onto the fashion scene—a conical-shaped bra named for the military associations of the era. It was created by the brand Perma-Lift in 1941, but its real success came later. Initially worn by pin-up models, bullet bras were popularized in the 1950s by Hollywood stars—Marilyn Monroe, Patti Page and Lana Turner. These divas turned the conical bra into a symbol of femininity and became true influencers of their time.
Pin-up models Lee and Lyn Wilde
The “sweater girl” look became particularly striking—women paired bullet bras with fitted sweaters, emphasizing their bold shape. Post-war conservative society did not embrace this trend. For many, the bra seemed too provocative. Nevertheless, young women, inspired by celebrities, used it as a symbol of freedom. Soon, the bullet bra’s shape became so exaggerated that special pads were often needed to maintain its conical cups.
Actress Mamie Van Doren
A Grand Comeback
By the late 1960s and early 1970s, advancements in industry and synthetic fabrics made bras more comfortable and closer to modern designs. Yet, the provocative bullet bra did not vanish forever.
In 1984, young designer Jean-Paul Gaultier showcased the conical bra on the runway in his Barbès collection (Fall/Winter 1984–85). One model appeared in an orange velvet dress with an exaggerated conical bodice, transforming underwear into high fashion. Gaultier made the bullet bra a core part of his brand’s DNA.
The real breakthrough came in 1990 when Gaultier designed costumes for Madonna’s Blond Ambition tour. The pink corset with conical cups became iconic and entered the history of fashion and pop culture.
Photo by Brandon Carson
Bullet Bra in 2025
At the latest Paris Fashion Week, Miu Miu unexpectedly brought conical bras back to the runway. The aesthetics of the 1940s and 1950s were the season’s key theme. While other designers drew inspiration from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s structured forms or Christian Dior’s flowing lines, Miu Miu chose to pay homage to the bullet bra—an equally iconic detail of the 1950s.
The trend was embraced by Kate Moss in a recent editorial for The Perfect Magazine. The supermodel appeared in a form-fitting beige dress that accentuated a bold breast silhouette—a true 21st-century “sweater girl”.
