For years, Louis Vuitton steered clear of the crowded cosmetics market. However, even this fashion titan couldn’t resist the pressures of declining profits and, this year, unveiled its ultra-luxury beauty collection. On August 29, the La Beauté line will launch in Louis Vuitton boutiques and online, featuring lipsticks and lip balms priced at €140 and eyeshadows at €220. Each product is refillable, with separately available refills offered at a new price point.

 

Who is behind the world’s most expensive cosmetics? None other than Pat McGrath, the iconic makeup artist and Louis Vuitton’s newly appointed creative director of beauty, a role she assumed in March 2025.

 

 

If Pat McGrath’s name doesn’t ring a bell, her work undoubtedly will. From the glass-like finish on faces at John Galliano’s last haute couture show for Maison Margiela to extravagant looks for brands like Alexander McQueen, Valentino, and Dior, McGrath’s artistry is unmistakable. A makeup artist without formal training, her singular talent has elevated fashion makeup to an art form. Her contributions have earned her prestigious accolades: in 2017, she became the first makeup artist to receive the CFDA Founder’s Award, and in 2021, Queen Elizabeth II honored her with the title of Dame Commander of the British Empire for services to fashion and beauty—the first makeup artist to receive this distinction.

 

 

Childhood and Youth

Pat McGrath was born in 1970 in Northampton, England, to Jamaican immigrant Jean McGrath. Raised by her single mother, a devout Jehovah’s Witness, Pat grew up in a disciplined yet creatively rich environment. Jean, a fashion enthusiast, taught her daughter to appreciate eyeshadow shades, fabrics, and patterns. “She trained me, basically, to do the shows, right there… look at the pattern, check the fabrics, look for the make-up – and begin,” Pat recalled in a 2007 Vogue interview.

 

After high school, Pat completed a foundational art course at Northampton College and moved to London, where she was captivated by the vibrant aesthetics of the 1980s club scene. The legendary Blitz club and its stars, like Boy George, with their bold makeup, inspired her early experiments. Pat trailed style icons along King’s Road, adopting their unconventional approach to self-expression.

 

Breakthrough in High Fashion

A pivotal moment came when Pat met Kim Bowen, a renowned stylist working with magazines like The Face and i-D. Bowen recognized Pat’s potential and invited her to collaborate on photoshoots, where she could experiment freely with makeup. Through Bowen, Pat connected with Edward Enninful, then editor of i-D, who helped her showcase her talent and established her as a key figure in cutting-edge fashion shoots.

 

 

Transforming the Industry

Since then, no significant show in the 1990s or 2000s passed without Pat’s “hands”—she famously prefers working with her fingers rather than brushes. Before McGrath, runway makeup was merely an accessory to clothing. She rewrote the rules, transforming it into a standalone art form. As the first to incorporate decorative elements like feathers, rhinestones, and glitter, she created looks as iconic as the designers’ collections. Her work for brands like Christian Dior and John Galliano set trends, and her innovative approach inspired millions.

 

 

 

Pat also pioneered inclusivity in fashion. She played a key role in creating the legendary “Black Issue” of Vogue Italia (July 2008) and made diversity the cornerstone of her brand, Pat McGrath Labs, launched in 2015. The brand quickly became a sensation, valued at $1 billion by 2018. However, in recent years, Pat McGrath Labs has faced challenges: high prices, reduced marketing efforts, and difficulties in commercializing its high-art approach have led to a decline in value. Fans are concerned about the brand’s future, especially now that Pat has taken on the role of creative director for Louis Vuitton’s La Beauté line.

 

Pat McGrath is not just a makeup artist but a visionary who has redefined fashion and beauty. Her new role at Louis Vuitton promises to be a defining chapter in her career, and the La Beauté line offers an opportunity to prove her talent can conquer even the most competitive market.