This summer, minimalism and Old Money aesthetics have definitively taken a backseat. It-girls—from Hailey Bieber to Lisa from Blackpink—have embraced Pucci’s bold, multicolored prints during their 2025 vacations. It seems no elite resort or fashion enthusiast was left untouched by the brand’s allure. Naomi Campbell even sang for Pucci in a recent advertising campaign.
However, Pucci Summer is not a 2025 invention. In the 1950s and 1960s, celebrities and wealthy heiresses already dazzled in Emilio Pucci’s vibrant designs—not only on beaches but also in everyday life and on ski slopes. It all began with a ski suit.
A Fateful Encounter
I am the first in my family for generations to work.
—Emilio Pucci
Emilio Pucci’s path to the fashion world set him apart from most of his designer peers. Born on November 20, 1914, in Naples, he was a scion of an aristocratic Florentine family with roots tracing back to the Renaissance. Bearing the title of Marquis di Barsento, Emilio spent much of his life in Florence. In his youth, fashion was far from his interests: he was passionate about sports and politics, preparing for a diplomatic career while studying at prestigious universities in Italy and the United States. During World War II, he served as a military pilot in the Italian Air Force, rising to the rank of captain by 1948.
Emilio Pucci.
Photo: dati.camera.it
His fashion career began by chance. In 1947, at a Swiss ski resort, photographer Toni Frissell met Emilio Pucci and noticed his striking, self-sewn ski suit made from stretch fabric. A photograph of the suit appeared in Harper’s Bazaar, sparking excitement and commercial offers. Emilio instantly recognized his opportunity.
The Birth of the Pucci Brand
Observing the postwar generation of affluent travelers on Capri and in the Swiss Alps, Pucci identified his audience—young, free-spirited women craving self-expression. After launching a collection of ski suits, he opened his first boutique on Capri in 1950, where he unveiled a line of casual clothing. That same year, Pucci registered his brand, establishing its headquarters in his family’s palazzo in Florence.
Emilio made a bold bet on innovative fabrics—lightweight, stretchy, and vibrant. Silk, cotton, jersey, and stretch materials allowed him to create comfortable yet striking silhouettes. Drawing inspiration from Mediterranean culture, Emilio crafted his iconic psychedelic and geometric prints, which became the brand’s hallmark. Without formal fashion training, he masterfully blended colors and compositions, earning the nickname “Prince of Prints.” Today, the Pucci archive boasts over 500 unique patterns, forming the core of the brand’s DNA.
Model in an Emilio Pucci ensemble at a Florence show, 1966.
The Golden Era
In the 1950s and 1960s, Pucci was at the height of its glory. Jacqueline Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, and Marilyn Monroe wore its silk scarves and dresses, with Monroe even laid to rest in her favorite Pucci dress.
1970s Emilio Pucci silk cocktail dress.
Photo by Joe Mabel.
Woman’s printed jersey halter top and pants designed by Emilio Pucci.
In the 1960s, Emilio expanded the brand’s offerings, introducing accessories, swimwear, and even designing uniforms for Braniff International Airways’ flight attendants. In 1971, Pucci created the red-white-blue emblem for the Apollo 15 mission.
The prime crew of Apollo 15 with the mission emblem, 1971.
Pucci Today
After Emilio Pucci’s death in 1992, the brand’s leadership passed to his daughter, Laudomia Pucci. In the 1990s, the brand faced challenges as the era’s minimalism clashed sharply with Pucci’s bold, expressive style. In 2000, the brand found new life thanks to investments from LVMH, which now fully owns the company. Since 2021, Camille Miceli has served as Pucci’s creative director, continuing to revive the legacy of the “Prince of Prints.”
