Today, Thierry Mugler’s name is often synonymous with the iconic fragrance Angel, but in the 1990s, this French couturier was a true visionary whose theatrical runway shows rivaled the work of John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Mugler transformed the female form into something extraordinary, turning models into insects, fantastical creatures, and robots, dressing them in armor, tire dresses, and motorcycle-inspired aesthetics. His shows were not mere fashion events but entire universes where couture merged with pop culture, science fiction, and fetishism.
One of the most striking examples of his genius was the Fall-Winter 1997/98 couture show Les Chimères, presented on July 10, 1997, in Paris. This collection built on the ideas of Mugler’s previous couture work, Les Insectes (Spring-Summer 1997), where models, reminiscent of character from Franz Kafka’s “Metamorphosis”, transformed into insects adorned with wings and antennae.
Les Chimères: From Insects to Chimeras
The name Les Chimères translates to “Chimeras.” In ancient Greek mythology, a Chimera is a creature with a lion’s head, a goat’s body, and a serpent’s tail. Having explored insects in his prior collection, Mugler now drew inspiration from mythological imagery. The collection featured structured suits emphasizing cinched waists, evoking the femme fatale, alongside elements of latex, faux fur, and fantastical headpieces.
The “La Chimère” Dress: A Couture Masterpiece
The show’s climax was its final look, still regarded as one of the most expensive couture pieces in history. Enveloped in mist, model Adriana Karembeu took to the runway, embodying a hybrid creature—part human, part bird, part amphibian. The long, corseted dress shimmered with scale-like embellishments, adorned with horsehair at the hem and sleeves. A towering feathered headdress crowned the look, while vivid yellow contact lenses mimicked the gaze of a predatory bird.
Creating the “La Chimère” dress took Thierry Mugler and his team two full years. Jeweler Jean-Jacques Urcan and corsetier Mark Pullin, known as Mr. Pearl, collaborated on the piece. Urcan crafted the decorative elements—scales, rhinestones, and pearls—that gave the dress its iridescent glow. Mr. Pearl, a South African master, created the sculptural gold corset that formed the dress’s foundation. His work also graced collections by Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Alexander McQueen.
Thierry Mugler’s legacy endures to this day. The Les Chimères collection continues to inspire contemporary designers, and pop stars frequently choose archival Mugler looks for red-carpet appearances. Unfortunately, a full video of the show is not available online, but fragments can be found on the Fashion Channel.
